Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot, 2019 Bourgogne Aligoté
100% Aligoté. 35-90 year old vines grown in Barremien soils, a dense clay loaded with fossilized shells. Aligoté seems to be the only varietal that thrives in this type of soil. This is not your typical example of Aligoté, but rather a full grown, terroir driven wine to which no right-minded wine lover would add crême de cassis.
The wine is fermented and aged on its fine lees at cool temperatures in stainless steel vats using only native yeasts.
Because of the frost, production of the 2017 Bourgogne Aligoté was around one-sixth of normal (5,000 bottles). The attractive bouquet features apple blossom, orange cordial and a touch of cold, wet limestone, and the palate is very well balanced with a hint of bitter lemon on the entry. What I admire is the waxy texture that I look for in an Aligoté. There is a judicious touch of spice toward the elegant finish. Excellent.-Vinous