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Domaine Dagueneau in Transition.

As we are now all aware, Didier Dagueneau passed away in late September in a light plane accident in France.  Without going into the effect that this has had on those of us that were close to this unique man, I find it important to describe where the domaine was heading before his death and what path it will be on in the future, as I see it.  As most of you are aware, Didier’s 26 year old son Benjamin will be taking over the winery with the help of his long-time staff and his daughter Charlotte.  

Over the years, Didier and I had become very close, confidants as it were, and we often discussed things that I now know were highly privileged.  The direction that both our businesses were heading occupied much of these discussions as well as personal issues that we were confronted with in our lives.     Didier expressed to me on numerous occasions how proud he had become of Benjamin’s development as well as his son’s obvious passion for the winemaking profession.  His son had become his right arm in both the vineyards and the winery, and blossomed throughout this process to such an extent that Didier had been freed up to pursue other interests (flying).

For anyone who has spent time in St. Andelain over the years, it is clear to see that Dagueneau was very thorough when it came to setting up his team.  He knew that his style of winegrowing was intensive, and that there was now a world class reputation to uphold every year.  To this end, his staff was more than twice as large as is the norm for the number of hectares that he farmed.  He was demanding with his staff, but treated them with respect and thus benefited from loyalty that is unusual in the industry.  In addition, Didier was worshipped by a large contingent of the greatest winegrowers in France.  These people were all at his funeral in September (although many were in the middle of harvest at the time) and have all expressed their eagerness to help Benjamin in any way that they can. 

All this to say that unknowingly, or maybe intentionally, Didier Dagueneau had put in place all of the elements necessary to carry on in his spirit should something tragic like this occur.  This is not to say that Benjamin should not or wishes not to be judged on his own merits.  He is very proud, and Didier’s were very large shoes to fill.  Nobody knows this better than his son.  That being said, the great 2007 vintage (Didier’s favorite of the decade) is ready for bottling later in December and the 2008 harvest will begin this week. 

There is no question that Domaine Dagueneau is prepared to continue producing top notch wines.  All of the tools are in place and next year we will be able to taste and judge the wines on their own merit. 

Michael Sullivan
Beaune Imports

http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Features/0,1197,4601,00.html


New Rioja: Zuazo Gaston
We stumbled on this fine new producer at the Alimentaria show last winter in Barcelona. Looking for anything but Rioja with an east coast importer colleague, we looked at each other and proceeded to enter into negotiations. The result is wines that are not easily pegged "new style" or "old style" Rioja, but rather newer style with a restrained side to them that harkens back to the older style, if this makes sense.


Natural weed control in François Chidaine's vineyards.

2007 White Loire
As those in the know will tell you, 2007 was a near-perfect vintage for whites in the Loire where they rise above even the wonderful 2002s. The stars came together after a very difficult summer to offer up weather in September and October that was near perfect. Clear days and cool nights were the norm. 2007 Sancerre Terroirs and Quincy from Sylvain Bailly are here while Christian Thirot's white is on its way. Francois Chidaine's Touraine Sauvignon has been a huge hit for quite a few months, and the last drops will arrive in November & December 2008. His much-awaited Montlouis & Vouvray wines are expected to arrive in early January.


A crisp autumn day in Vougeot. 2 Chateaux.

2006 Red Burgundy
The 2005 vintage was probably the most heralded and most sought after vintage of our time.  Speculation was rampant and the prices of the rarest wines are skyrocketing.  In the shadow of this great vintage come the 2006s, which are just beginning to arrive. The description that kept coming to mind in our recent trade tasting where we featured a couple of the properties was "delicious and drinkable now." Unlike the 2005s that are beginning to close up, like all great vintages do, the 2006s are wide open with up-front, delicious cherry fruit, soft tannins and good length and definition. This is the perfect vintage to drink while waiting for your 2005s to come around.


Philippe Verzier in his cellar.

In stock:

2007 Syrah, Vin de Pays, Cave de Chante Perdrix.  Another early drinking 2007 red that will confirm what people are saying about the vintage for the South of France.  From vines just outside of the St. Joseph appellation, 300 cases are produced and 250 of them have just arrived in California.  Ripe, crunchy syrah fruit with just enough pepper and spice in the nose.  Unctuous blue-tinged dark fruit.  Great value!

2006 St. Joseph Rouge.  Too good to be true.  Amazing wine again from Verzier.

2005 St. Joseph La Madone.  And this one is even better!  This vintage was an absolute success for Verzier.


In Stock:

2006 Château de Puligny-Montrachet.   A very strong vintage for the whites from this property. Winemaker Etienne de Montille claims that these are the best that he has produced since taking over the property in 2001. Full-bodied wines with good grip and acidity. Long and focused.


Pierre Gauthier's cellars.

2006 Cabernet Franc!
This vintage is great for many wines in many regions.  Few, however, are as successful as the Cabernet Francs from the Loire Valley.  Below is what we have in: Pierre Gauthier/Domaine Bel Air: 2006 Bourgueil, vingt lieux dits 2007 Bourgueil, Soif du Jour (although not a 2006, this is stunning) René Noël Legrand: 2006 Saumur Champigny, Les Lizières. Château Pierre Bise: 2005 Anjou Villages, 2005 Anjou Gamay


Trévallon Rouge 2005

Domaine de Trévallon.  A fabulous vintage, the rouge 2005 is big wine with tremendous, black fruit and plenty of structure. We brought some extra magnums in for those that have the patience. You won't regret it!


Moulin de Gassac

Guihelm Blanc & Rouge

Mas de Daumas Gassac, the flagship property of the Guibert family near Aniane in the Herault region of Southern France needs no introduction.  They're rightly considered the pioneers of a region that we all take for granted as being one of the most exciting for new wine finds in France.  For several years, they have been producing wines with a group of winemakers near Sête who farm their vineyards and vinify their wines to the high specifications required by the Guiberts.  25-50 year old vines.  Organically farmed vineyards.  Very reasonably priced wines.  What more do you want?

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